predominant wind direction from the National Weather Service. The wave Infor- 

 mation Study, underway at the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 

 should also be useful in providing wave climatology at a site. 



A limitation of both models is the lack of terms in the equations repre- 

 senting processes known to occur in nature. Both models are propagation models 

 and do not consider effects from wind, other waves, bottom frictional attenua- 

 tion, wave breaking, or reflection and diffraction. Studies are underway at 

 the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) to include some of these effects 

 in future models. 



III. EXAMPLE OF MODEL APPLICATION 



Both models are applied to an area in the vicinity of the CERC Field 

 Research Facility (FRF) at Duck, North Carolina, to illustrate the type of out- 

 put from each model. Some comparisons are also made to wave measurements taken 

 near the research pier. 



Bathymetry in the vicinity of the pier was surveyed in September 1978. The 

 survey data were processed using the techniques described by Herchenroder (in 

 preparation, 1981) to obtain evenly spaced values of depth. Contoured bathym- 

 etry for a grid of 50 by 50 lines near the research pier is shown in Figure 1. 

 The cell size was chosen as 82 feet (25 meters); therefore, the grid is 4,018 

 feet (1,225 meters) on a side. 



Figure 1, 



15 10 15 20 25 30 35 4p 45 50 



Contoured bathjmietry near CERC's pier (September 1978 survey). 

 Contour interval is in meters; grid interval Ax = Ay = 25 meters. 



