TABLE OF CONTENTS-Continued 



Page 

 CHAPTER 



IV DESCRIPTION OF TABLES 38 



Introduction 38 



Variables Presented in Tabular Form 38 



Internal Field Variables Depending on d and S 45 



Horizontal Water Particle Velocity Component, u(6, S) .... 45 



Vertical Water Particle Velocity Component, w(0, S) 47 



Horizontal Water Particle Acceleration, Du/Dt 47 



Vertical Water Particle Acceleration, Dw/Dt 47 



Drag Force Component, F£)(0, S) 47 



Inertia Force Component, Fj(0, S) 47 



Drag Moment Component, M£)(0, S) 47 



Inertia Moment Component, Mj(0,S) 47 



Dynamic Pressure Component, p„(0, S) 47 



Variables Depending on 6 Only 47 



Water Surface Displacement, ri{d) 47 



Total Drag Force Component, F^(0) 47 



Total Inertia Force Component, Fj{6) 49 



Total Drag Moment Component, Mjr)(0) 49 



Total Inertia Moment Component, Mj{6) 49 



Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition Error, e^ (d) ... 49 



Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition Error, 62(9) .... 49 



Overall Variables (do not depend on or S) 50 



Wavelength, L 50 



Average Potential Energy, PE 50 



Average Kinetic Energy, KE 50 



Average Total Energy, TE 50 



Average Total Energy Flux, Fy^ 51 



Group Velocity, Cq 51 



Average Momentum, M 51 



Average Momentum Flux in Wave Direction, F^ 51 



Average Momentum Flux Transverse to Wave Direction, F^ . 51 



Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition Errors, ej .... 52 



Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition Errors, e^ 52 



Kinematic Free Surface Breaking Parameter, j3 ^ 52 



Dynamic Free Surface Breaking Parameter, jS^ 52 



Variables Presented in Graphical Form— Combined Effect of 



Shoaling and Refraction 52 



