FIGURES-Continued 



Figure Page 



11 Comparison of errors in dynamic free surface boundary condition for three 



numerical wave theories, Wave no. 3 21 



12 Experimental wave characteristics 24 



13 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest, Case 1 27 



14 Horizontal water particle velocity under tlie crest, Case 2 28 



15 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest. Case 3 29 



16 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest, Case 4 30 



17 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest. Case 5 31 



18 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest, Case 6 32 



19 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest. Case 7 " 33 



20 Horizontal water particle velocity under the crest, Case 8 34 



21 Vertical water particle velocity. Case 9 35 



22 Free surface elevation, Case 10 36 



23 Wave characteristics selected for tabulation 39 



24 Example output for dimensionless horizontal velocity component field ... 46 



25 Combined shoaling-refraction for a deepwater wave direction, a^, = ... 53 



26 Combined shoaUng-refraction for a deepwater wave direction, a^ = 10° ... 54 



27 Combined shoaUng-refraction for a deepwater wave direction, a^ = 20° ... 55 



28 Combined shoaling-refraction for a deepwater wave direction, a^ = 40 ... 56 



29 Combined shoaUng-refraction for a deepwater wave direction, a^, ~ 60 ... 57 



30 Definition sketch, wave approaching platform 59 



31 Horizontal wave forces on member "a" 62 



32 Horizontal wave forces on member "b" 64 



33 Horizontal wave forces on member "c" 67 



34 Wave moments on member "a" 70 



35 Wave moments on member "b" 72 



36 Wave moments on member "c" 73 



37 Example calculations of wave profile, kinematics and dynamic pressure ... 77 



38 Free surface boundary condition errors 80 



39 Example 6-b, shoaUng-refraction for a^ = 10°. Interpolation from 



h/L^ = 0.0814 and H/L^ = 0.0271 to h/L^ = 0.0542 87 



40 Interpolation aid 89 



41 AuxiUary plot of F'j^ for example 7a 92 



U-l Definition sketch for shoaUng-refraction considerations 104 



11-2 Variation of Fj^ and L' for h/L^ ^ 0.02 106 



