SYMBOLS-Continued 



Symbol Description 



u Horizontal component of water particle velocity 



u' Dimensionless form of u, defined in Equation (21) 



Ujj^ Measured horizontal component of water particle velocity 



Uji Theoretical horizontal component of water particle velocity 



^ Subscript "U" denoting upper value 



w Vertical component of water particle velocity 



w' Dimensionless form of w, defined in Equation (22) 



^L U Weighting coefficients, defined by Equation (50) 



X Horizontal coordinate 



X Stream-function coefficients 



z Vertical coordinate, referenced to still water level, positive upwards 



a Wave crest alignment relative to bottom contours 



Oq Deepwater value of 



Otg Wave crest alignment at breaking conditions 



jSj Kinematic free surface breaking parameter, defined by Equation (48) 



/Jj Dynamic free surface breaking parameter, defined by Equation (49) 



7 Specific weight of water 



e Distributed error in kinematic free surface boundary condition 



e. Distributed error in dynamic free surface boundary condition 



e'j Dimensionless form of e^ , defined by Equation (36) 



Tj Water surface displacement 



Tj' Dimensionless form of 17, defined by Equation (30) 



6 Phase angle 



IT Numerical constant, 3.14159 .... 



p Mass density of water 



a Standard deviation 



Velocity potential 



1// Stream function 



i//„ Stream-function value evaluated on free surface of an "arrested" wave 



