Volume 3, No. 3 (Continued) 



Measurements of Heights by Resistance Elements 



A method of measuring wave heights in a laboratory wave tank, 

 utilizing wire resistance elements and a recording oscillograph, 

 is summarized. 



Volume 3, No. 4 - October 1949 



Recent Contributions of Wave Research to Harbor Engineering 



Results of extensive research into wave problems and related 

 phenomena stimulated by World War II have definite peacetime appli- 

 cation to harbor engineering. Principal problems discussed are 

 confined to wind-generated waves and are presented In broad aspect 

 as characteristics of waves, compilation of design data, wave re- 

 fraction and diffraction, and wave action on structures. Written 

 by J. W. Johnson, University of California, July 1948. 



Combining Leadline and Echo-Sounding Methods in Surveys of Submarine 

 Canyons 



In surveying a steep-sided submarine canyon where an echo sounder 

 alone would not give sufficiently accurate results, a standard stream 

 gaging unit, consisting of a 100-pound streamlined lead weight 

 fastened to a stainless steel wire on a winding drum equipped with 

 a counter, was utilized for quick accurate soundings. Soundings 

 could be taken at 15 to 20-second Intervals in depths as great as 

 150 feet. 



Forecasting Breakers and Surf on a Straight Beach of Infinite Length 



Memoranda prepared in the Department of Engineering, University 

 of California in February 1947. Generalized diagrams for simplifying 

 surf forecasts (breaker height and depth and angle with bottom 

 contours) are presented and discussed. 



Construction of Additional Beach Erosion Board Research Facilities 



The large outdoor wave tank (635 feet In length and wave gene- 

 rator capable of producing waves up to 6 feet in height), and the 

 shore processes test basin which were under construction In 1949 

 are described. 



Volume 4, No. I - January 1950 



Wave Refraction at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California 



Examples of wave refraction analysis are presented and dis- 

 cussed which offer rational explanations of unusual observations 

 at Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California, by M. P. O'Brien. 



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