Volume 6, No. 5 - July 1952 



A Method of Separating Multiple Systems of Ocean Waves for Detailed 

 Study of Direction and Other Properties 



The technique described is applied to aerial photography whereby 

 wave crests from obvious directions are blocked out by a system of 

 parallel lines thereby causing wave crests from less obvious di- 

 rections to stand out which could otherwise go unnoticed. Written 

 by H. A. Ward, Beach Erosion Board staff. 



Developments in the Science of Coastal Engineering 



A brief generalization of the factors involved in the solution 

 of shore problems. Written by Captain Peter Somers, Executive 

 Officer, Beach Erosion Board. 



Notes on Determination of Stable Underwater Breakwater Slopes 



- A brief d iscussion of the app I icab i I i ty of the or igina I I ri barren 

 formula to the underwater slopes of rubble-mound breakwaters. 

 Written by Kenneth Kaplan, Beach Erosion Board staff. 



A New Method for Graphical Construction of Wave Refraction Diagrams 



A new method is developed and discussed in detail by Thornd i ke 

 Saville, Jr. and Kenneth Kaplan, including drawings of protractors 

 or overlays to be used in its application. An example case with 

 results by other methods, as well as the new method, is presented 

 and the relative accuracy discussed. 



Volume 6, No. 4 - October 1952 



Description and Operating Instructions for Wave Gage WH-I 



Detailed description (including photographs) and operating 

 instructions for an underwater pressure response type of wave gage 

 are presented. The gage is designed for use in water depths up to 

 60 feet and does not require a structure to support it. 



Volume 7, No. I - January 1955 



Longshore and Coastal Currents at Scripps Institution Pier 



Current direction and velocity were measured at three locations 

 along the 1,000-foot pier at Scripps Institution of Oceanography at 

 La Jolla, California. Measurements were made inside the breakers, 

 just outside the breakers, and at the end of the pier; wind, wave, 

 and weather conditions were recorded. The data is analyzed and 

 discussed; relationships are established between currents shoreward 

 and seaward of the breakers. Written by F. P. Shepard and D. B. 

 Sayner, Scripps Institution of Oceanography. 



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