Volume 7, No. 3 - July 1955 



Calculation of Refraction Factor Along a Wave Ray 



Application of theory for calculating the refraction factor 

 along a single ray without drawing a second ray is discussed, and 

 an example is worked out. The method is time consuming, however, 

 and is suggested for special rather than general use. Written by 

 Robert S. Arthur, Scripps Institution of Oceanography. 



Volume 7, No. 4 - October 1955 



Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Darbyshire and 

 Bretschneider Methods and Recorded Waves for Point Argue! lo, 

 California, 26-29 October 1950 



The major disparity observed from the comparison was in the time 

 element. Highest significant wave heights from the Darbyshire method 

 were about 16 hours later than those recorded with the wave gage, 

 while those obtained with the Bretschneider-revised Sverdrup-Munk 

 method were about two hours early. 



A Comparison of Observed and Hindcast Wave Characteristics off 

 Southern New England 



Time phase element between observed and hindcast wave patterns 

 for times of greatest wave height and period showed good agreement. 

 Hindcasts were made by Bretschneider-revised Sverdrup-Munk method. 

 Observed wave lengths were generally 50 percent less than theoreti- 

 cal lengths computed by Lq = 5.12 T^, and thus supports findings of 

 other investigators. 



Volume 8, No. 1 - January 1954 



Ripple Tank Studies of the Motion of Surface Gravity-Waves 



Discussion and photographs of wave refraction and diffraction 

 phenomena under various types of problem conditions as illustrated 

 by a ripple tank. Written by Osvald J. Sibul, University of 

 Ca I i fornia. 



Volume 8, No. 2 - Apri I 1954 



Tidal Current Meters 



A description with photographs of mud i f icat ions made by personnel 

 of the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation to the Pegram meter originally 

 designed by Dean G. B. Pegram of Columbia University to measure water 

 velocities. Modifications to the meter permit its use for measuring 

 flow in natural channels influenced by tides. 



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