Volume 8, No. 5 - July 1954 



Shore Protection in Harrison County, Mississippi 



A description of the construction and effectiveness of the 

 Federally authorized beach erosion control project. A protective 

 beach was provided for about 25 miles of Mississippi Sound shore- 

 line and repairs made to an existing seawall. Written by Francis 

 F. Escoffier and W. L. Dolive, U. S. Army Engineer District, Mobile. 



Comparison of Hindcast and Observed Waves Along the New Jersey 

 Coast for the Storm of November 6-7, 1955 



Wave hindcast data determined by a class on wave phenomena 

 held at the Beach Erosion Board are compared and differences dis- 

 cussed. Comparison is also made between results obtained by the 

 Bretschneider-revised-Sverdrup-Munk method and by Pierson-Neumann 

 method of wave forecasting. 



Volume 8, No. 4 - October 1954 



A Statistical Study of the Effect of Wave Steepness on Wave Velocity 



Wave velocities determined theoretically by the Airy theory 

 (neglecting wave steepness) and by the Stokes theory (considering 

 wave steepness) are compared with wave velocities measured in a 

 laboratory wave tank. The relative effects of the steepness func- 

 tion and the depth-wave length function on the theoretical velocity 

 correction for the effect of wave steepness are also investigated. 

 Written by Rudolph P. Savage, Beach Erosion Board staff. 



Travelling Forelands and the Shore Line Processes Associated 

 With Them 



The importance of the angle of incidence of waves causing the 

 cuspate foreland to migrate and grow is discussed. The concept of 

 a most favorable drift-producing angle is used to explain the 

 processes involved. Written by Francis F. Escoffier. 



Volume 9, No. I - January 1955 



A Simplified Method of Determining Durations and Frequencies of 

 Waves Greater or Less than a Specified Height 



A method is shown whereby forecasts can be made determining 

 whether waves are greater or less than a pre-determined limiting 

 height without forecasting the actual height. This simplifies the 

 procedure considerably for cases where actual wave heights are not 

 required. Written by Thorndike Saville, Jr. 



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