T.M. No. 108 - November 1958 



Surf Statistics for the Coasts of the United States by J. R. Hel le 



Visual observations of surf conditions including period, sig- 

 nificant height and direction were begun in 1954 at 27 stations, 

 located on the Atlantic, Gulf and Pacific coasts of the United 

 States, under a cooperative surf observation program between the 

 U.S. Coast Guard and the Beach Erosion Board. Data on heights for 

 the 3-year period, 1954-1957, are summarized on a monthly basis in 

 tabular form, and are presented graphically as cumulative frequency 

 curves on an annual basis for each station. Effects of hurricanes 

 on surf conditions along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts were also 

 studied. A comparison of observed surf and hindcast wave statistics 

 is presented for the station at Grand Isle, Louisiana. . 



T.M. No. 109 - March 1959 



Laboratory Data on Wave Runup on Roughened and Impermeable Slopes 

 by Rudolph P. Savage 



Laboratory tests determining runup on various shore slopes as a 

 result of wave action are described. Curves relating runup to wave 

 steepness for different conditions of roughness and permeability 

 are presented and compared. 



T.M. No. I 10 - Apri I 1959 



Beaches Near San Francisco, California, 1956-1957 by P. D. Trask 



Eighteen profiles on ocean beaches in the vicinity of San 

 Francisco, California, were measured and sampled at 2 to 6-week 

 intervals from July 1956 to June 1957; results are presented in 

 tables and graphs. Individual beaches differ from one another, 

 and the same beach differs from season to season and from place 

 to place at any given time. The sand on the beaches tends to be 

 relatively fine in the fall and coarse in the late winter or early 

 spring. Individual beaches commonly build up during summer and fall 

 and erode back during winter and spring. The front of the berm may 

 advance or retreat as much as 100 feet throughout the year. 



T.M. No. II I - May 1959 



Large-Scale Tests of Wave Forces on Piling (Preliminary Report) 

 by C. W. Ross 



Measurements were made in a large wave tank of forces exerted 

 against a test pile by wave action. Instrumentation and procedures 

 are pictured and described. The measured forces are presented in 

 tabular form, grouped by various test conditions. Analysis and cor- 

 relation of forces with wave phase and velocity were pot completed 

 at this time. 



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