T.M. No. 59 - March 1955 



Area I and Seasonal Variations in Beach and Nearshore Sediments at 

 La Jo I la, Ca I ifornia by Douglas L. inman 



The nature of the seasonal distributions of certain physical 

 properties of sediments on the beach and shallow shelf area between 

 two submarine canyon heads was studied. Series of bottom samples 

 were obtained periodically. Topographic surveys showing the changes 

 in sand level were made concurrently with sediment sampling opera- 

 tions. Emphasis in the laboratory analysis of the sediments was on 

 distribution of particle size, but other properties such as shape, 

 roundness, neavy mineral and carbonate content were also measured. 

 Movement of beach and bottom materials and area I distribution of 

 their physical properties are presented and discussed. 



T.M. No. 40 - March 1955 



The Mechanics of Deep Water, Shallow Water, and Breaking Waves 

 by J . R. Morison and R. C. Crooke 



Experimental data are presented for deepwater, shallow-water, 

 and breaking waves with respect to the wave surface time history, 

 the horizontal and vertical particle velocities and the particle 

 orbits. The measurements are compared where appi icable to Stokes 

 wave theory. Results show that Stokes wave theory and other wave 

 theories are In good agreement with the measurements for deepwater 

 conditions even to d/L values of approximately 0.2. The theories do 

 not show agreement with measurements for shal low-water conditions 

 where d/L values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have 

 an appreciable steepness. 



T.M. No. 41 - August 1954 



Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profiles of Beaches, b y R. L. Rector 



Results of laboratory experiments using regular wave trains of 

 laboratory size with varying height-length ratios and four sizes of 

 natural beach sands to determine the physical factors controlling 

 the equilibrium profile of a beach and the interrelationships of 

 these factors are reported. Processes involved in the shaping of a 

 beach profile by wave action are discussed, and empirical relations 

 between profile shape and wave and sand size, are involved. 



T.M. No. 42 - October 1955 



A Study of Sand Movement at South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida 

 by George M. Watts 



Results are reported for a study made in connection with the 

 operation of a sand bypassing plant to Investigate the effectiveness 



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