T.M. No. 26 - November 1951 



Sand Movement on the Shallow Inter-Canyon Shelf at La Jolla, 

 California by F. P. Shepard and D. L. Inman 



The nature of changes in sand level of a beach and shal low shelf 



area between two submarine canyon heads has been indicated by eight 

 repeated surveys accompanied by five sampling operations, which are 



believed to establish significant changes out to depths of at least 



100 feet. Wave observations were obtained and refraction analysis 



made. Sand level changes between surveys are plotted, and sand 

 movement over the shelf analyzed. 



T.M. No. 27 - June 1952 



Wind Set-up and Waves in Shallow Water by Thornd i ke Savi I le, Jr. 



Analyses of wind, wave, and water level data obtained in Lake 

 Okeechobee, Florida, during the passage of two hurricanes, one in 

 August 1949 and the other in October 1950, are presented. Observed 

 wind setup and wave heights are related to wind velocity, fetch, 

 water depth, and surface shape of the lake. Coefficient evaluated 

 in the expression for wind setup is in close agreement with those 

 previously developed by others from model experiments and data taken 

 in the Zuider Zee (Netherlands). 



T.M. No. 28 - October 1952 



Source of Beach Sand at Santa Barbara, California, as Indicated by 

 Mineral Grain Studies by Parker D. Trask 



Minera log ica I study of sand grains, in Santa Barbara Harbor and 

 along the coast west and north of the harbor for a distance of more 

 than 250 miles was made. A series of 300 samples of beach, river, 

 and offshore sands were collected and analyzed. A significant pro- 

 portion of the sand at Santa Barbara comes from a distance of more 

 than 100 miles upcoast, and this sand moves around Point Conception. 

 The distribution of minerals along the shore is described and the 

 mechanism of transport around promontories and the Santa Barbara 

 breakwater is discussed. 



T.M. No. 29 - December 1952 



Artificially Nourished and Constructed Beaches by Jay V. Ha I I , Jr. 



Criteria for design of artificially nourished beaches are out- 

 lined. Four types of artificial nourishment methods that have been 

 tried in the United States are described: namely, offshore dumping, 

 stockpiling, continuous supply, and direct placement methods. These 

 methods have been employed at Santa Barbara, California, Atlantic 

 City and Long Branch, New Jersey, Palm Beach and South Lake Worth 

 Inlet, Florida. A tabular record of artificially nourished and 

 constructed beaches, including factors relating to their placement 

 and economic life, is appended. 



