Volume I I (Continued) 



Study of Pilot Beaches in New England for the Improvement of 

 Coastal Storm Warning by John M. Darl i ng 



Following the storm of March 1962, a program was established 

 to improve the ability to predict storm damage at any given beach. 

 Several pilot beaches were selected for the program. This paper 

 deals with a project at Misquamicut Beach, Rhode Island, and the 

 storm of November 1963. Storm severity is graded according to total 

 elevation of the predicted tide plus storm surge. Curves repre- 

 senting beach vulnerability to storms are presented. The ordinate 

 represents storm severity in feet; the abscissa represents storm 

 duration in hours. The space above the top curve represents dangerous 

 flooding; the space below the bottom curve represents minor flooding; 

 the spaces between the curves represent conditions between dangerous' 

 and minor flooding. Curves are prepared for prestorm conditions, 

 after storm damage, after repairs, and for the present state. 



The Sears Sea Sled for Surveying 1n the Surf Zone 

 by M. A. Kolessar and J. L. Reynolds 



The paper describes the design and use of a device that facili- 

 tates the difficult job of hydrographic surveying in the surf zone. 

 The base of the device resembles a sled fabricated of metal members. 

 Mounted on this base is a 23-foot mast graduated in 0.5-foot incre- 

 ments. The sled has been moved into the surf zone by towin'g with a 

 boat and by helicopter. Use of the device has resulted in accurate 

 and economical surveys. 



Heights of Waves Generated by a Flap-Type Wave Generator 

 by C. J . Ga I vin, Jr. 



The hydrodynamic theory of flap-type generators and the shallow- 

 water approximation to this theory (Galvin, 1964) agree with with 

 each other but not with available data. Additional data were needed 

 to see whether the theory or the data caused the discrepancy. Such 

 data were provided in July 1964 during an engineering study in the 

 635-foot wave tank using a flap-type generator. All data from that 

 study are collected in Table I and are compared with the theoreti- 

 cal curve on Figure I. Wave heights used are averages of visual 

 and electronic measurements, both made 160 feet from the generator. 

 Length was computed from water depths and wave period. , Most 

 measured heights are somewhat less than the predicted values, and 

 similar to the heights produced by other types of generators, but 

 the data agree well with theory. On the basis of these data, it 

 is concluded that wave heights produced by flap-type generators 

 are consistent with those predicted by the complete hydrodynamic 

 theory and the approximate theory, at least over the range of 

 data tested. 



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