Problems in May 1949. Mission and research program 

 of the Beach Erosion Board is briefly outlined. 



"New Jersey Creates Beach Erosion Committee" 



The State of New Jersey by action of its legislature 

 9 April 1949 provided for creation of a commission to 

 consider and provide ways and means to protect and pre- 

 serve the beaches and shore front of the State by the 

 erection and construction of protective works, dredging, 

 and other suitable methods. The enabling act is quoted. 



II-A "The Causes of Plunging and Spilling Breakers" 



Notes prepared by Dean M. P. O'Brien, University of 

 California, January 1946. Conditions causing plunging 

 and spilling breakers are listed as determined from 

 field observations and photographs. The role of bottom 

 slope and wave steepness and ratio of breaker height to 

 water depth is discussed. 



II -E "Discussion - A Formula for the Calculation of Rock Fill Dikes" 

 by Mr. R. M. McCrone, Lower Mississippi Valley Division, Corps 

 of Engineers 



Points out that for protection against wave action or 

 erosion due to river currents a homogeneous non-erosible 

 monolith of sand asphalt mixtures is preferable to 

 heterogeneous masses of riprap even if rock sizes are 

 adequate. Cites discussion in Proceedings of ASCE, 

 December 1948. 



II -F "Comite Central D'Oceanographie et D*Etude des Cotes" 



Briefs of information of general interest contained in 

 periodic Information Bulletin issued by above French 

 organization. Includes notes on erosion and protective 

 measures at Pointe de Grave, France, description of the 

 Center for Research and Oceanographis Studies, and 

 description of a recording manometer for submarine 

 pressures. 



I-A "Measurements of Heights by Resistance Elements" by J. R. 

 D Morison, University of California 



A method of measuring wave heights in a laboratory wave 

 tank utilizing wire resistance elements and a recording 

 oscillograph is summarized. 



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