"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Listing of cooperative studies in progress. 



ISSUE NO. 4-1 October 1949 



II -A "Recent Contributions of Wave Research to Harbor Enp;ineering" 

 by J. W. Johnson, University of California, July 1948 



Results of extensive research into wave problems and re- 

 lated phenomena stimulated by World War II have definite 

 peacetime application to harbor engineering. Principal 

 problems discussed are confined to wind-generated waves 

 and are presented in broad aspect as characteristics of 

 waves, compilation of design data, wave refraction and 

 diffraction, and wave action on structures. 



II-D "Combining Leadline and Echo-Sounding Methods in Surveys of 

 Submarine Canyons" 



In surveying a steep-sided submarine cainyon where an echo 

 sounder alone would not give sufficiently accurate re- 

 sults, a standard stream gaging unit, consisting of a 100- 

 pound streamlined lead weight fastened to a stainless 

 steel wire on a winding drura equipped with a counter, was 

 utilized for quick accurate soundings. Soundings could 

 be taken at 15 to 20 -second intervals in depths as great 

 as 150 feet. 



II-A 'T precast ing Breakers and Surf on a Straight Beach of Infinite 

 Length" 



Memoranda prepared in the Department of Engineering, 

 University of California in February 1947. Generalized 

 diagrams for simplifying surf forecasts (breaker height 

 and depth and angle with bottom contours) are presented 

 and discussed. 



l-f "Construction of Additional Beach Erosion Board Research 



Facilities" 



The large outdoor wave tank (635 feet in length and wave 

 generator capable of producing waves up to 6 feet in 

 height) and the shore processes test basin which were 

 under construction in 1949 are described. 



"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Listing of cooperative studies in progress. 



54 



