Characteristics of waves destructive to harbor break- 

 waters in the Long Beach-San Pedro area are examined 

 for Southern hemisphere swell occurring in 1930 and 

 waves from a tropical storm in the North Pacific Ocean 

 occurring in 1939. Refraction analysis are made, and 

 hindcast of wave conditions occurring in the 1939 storm 

 is made from available weather data. 



II-C "The Wind Element in Beach Erosion" by Dr. Martin A. Mason 



Presented at Symposium on Hydrometeorological Problems, 

 American Geophysical Union, 2 May 1950. The role of the 

 wind in removing sand from the beaches is discussed, and 

 relative importance of effects of wind -generated water 

 waves and direct effects of the wind on the shore face 

 is discussed. Relationships of wind velocity and sand 

 movement developed by other investigators are given. 



I-D "The Lag and Reduction of Range in Tide Gage Wells" by 

 F Morrough P. O'Brien, University of California 



Theoretical analysis and experimental study of the problem 

 of lag of high and low water and reduction of range in a 

 tidal gage well are presented. Theoretical curves are 

 concluded to be more reliable because error in the experi- 

 mental results is relatively great. 



"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Summary of completed cooperative study report on Lake 

 County, Ohio is presented. Listings of all completed 

 cooperative studies and those still in progress are also 

 included. 



"Beach Erosion Literature" 



Abstracts of acquisitions to the Board's Library. 



ISSUE NO. 4 - 1 October 1950 



II-C "Munch-Petersen's Littoral Drift Formula" 



Translation of a paper presented by Mr. Sv. Svendsen 

 before the Association of Government and Harbor Engineers 

 at Helsingfors in August 1938. A formula developed by 

 the late Danish Professor Munch-Petersen giving the 

 material-moving power of the waves at a point on the 



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