"Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the Beach Erosion 

 Board" 



Abstracts from progress reports on the several research 

 contracts in force between the Beach Erosion Board and 

 universities or other institutions, and brief statements 

 regarding the status of research projects being prosecuted 

 at the Board's own laboratory are presented. 



"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Suimnaries of completed cooperative study reports on (Biio 

 Shoreline of Lake Erie - Sheffield Lake Village to Rocky 

 River, Ocean City New Jersey, Virginia Beach Virginia, and 

 Sandusky Bay CSiio, and a listing of those cooperative 

 studies still in progress are presented. 



ISSUE NO. 4 - 1 October 1953 



II-A "Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Darbyshire 

 and Bretschneider Methods and Recorded Waves for Point 

 Arguello, California, 26-29 October 1950" 



The major disparity observed from the comparison was in the 

 time element. Highest significant wave heights from the 

 Darbyshire method were about 16 hours later than those re- 

 corded with the wave gage, while those obtained with the 

 Bretschneider revised Sverdrup-Munk method were about 2 

 hours early. 



II-A "A Comparison of Observed and Hindcast Wave Characteristics 

 off Southern New England" by Robert F. Dearduff, Beach 

 Erosion Board 



Time phase element between observed and hindcast wave 

 patterns for times of greatest wave height and period 

 shewed good agreement. Hindcasts were made by Bretschneider- 

 revised Sverdrura-+lunk method. Observed wave lengths were 

 generally 50 percent less than theoretical lengths computed 

 by Lq = 5,12 t2, and thus supports findings of other 

 investigators. . 



"Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the Beach Erosion 

 Board" 



Abstracts from progress reports on the several research 

 contracts in force between the Beach Erosion Board and 



68 



