"Comparison of Hindcast and Observed Waves Along the New 

 Jersey Coast for the Storm of Noyember 6-7, 1953" by 

 Kenneth Kaplan and Thorndike Saville, Jr., Beach Erosion 

 Board 



Wave hindcast data determined by students in a class on 

 wave phenomena held at the Beach Erosion Board and by 

 the Board's staff instructors (the authors) is compared 

 and differences discussed. Canparison is also made 

 between results obtained by the Bretschneider-revised- 

 Sverdrup-Munk method and by Piers on-Neumann method of 

 wave forecasting. 



"Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the Beach Erosion 

 Board" 



Abstracts from progress reports on the several research 

 contracts in force between the Beach Erosion Board and 

 universities or other institutions, and brief statements 

 regarding the status of research projects being prose- 

 cuted at the Board's own laboratory are presented. 



"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Summary of a completed cooperative study report on Pinellas 

 County, Florida is presented. Listings of all completed 

 cooperative studies and those still in progress are also 

 presented, 



ISSUE NO. 4 - 1 October 1954 



IH^ "A Statistical Study of the Effect of Wave Steepness on Wave 



Velocity" by Rudolph P. Savage, Beach Erosion Board 



Wave velocities determined theoretically by Airy theory 

 neglecting effect of wave steepness and by Stokes theory 

 considering wave steepness are compared with wave velo- 

 cities measured in a laboratory wave tank. The relative 

 effects of the steepness function and the depth-wave 

 length function on the theoretical velocity correction 

 for the effect of wave steepness is also investigated. 



IIKI "Travelling Forelands and the Shore Line Processes Associated 



With Them" by Francis F, Escoffier, U, S. Array Engineer 

 District Mobile 



The importance of the angle of incidence of waves causing 

 the cuspate foreland to migrate and grow is discussed. 



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