The concept of a most favorable drift -producing angle 

 is used to explain the processes involved, 



"Progress Reports on Research Sponsored by the Beach Erosion 

 Board" 



Abstracts from prepress reports on the several research 

 contracts in force between the Beach Erosion Board and 

 universities or other institutionsi and brief statements 

 regarding the status of research projects being prose- 

 cuted at the Board*s own laboratory are presented, 



"Beach Erosion Studies" 



Listing of cooperative studies in progress. 



VOLUME 9 - 1955 



ISSUE NO. 1-1 January 1955 



II-A "A Simplified Method of Determining Durations and Frequencies 



of Waves Greater or Less than a Specified Height" by 

 Thorndike Saville, Jr., Beach Erosion Board 



A method is shovm whereby forecasts can be made determining 

 whether waves are greater or lesser than a pre-determined 

 limiting height without forecasting the actual height. 

 This simplifies the procedure considerably for cases where 

 actual wave heights are not required. 



II-A "A Comparison of Deep Water Wave Forecasts by the Pierson- 



Neumann, the Darbyshire, and the Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider 

 Methods with Recorded Waves for Point Arguello, California 

 for 26-29 October 1950" by Robert F. Dearduff, Beach Erosion 

 Board 



The relatively new Pierson-Neumann or Wave Spectra Method 

 for forecasting resulted in higher average wave heights 

 than the other methods, and even higher heights than were 

 recorded by the wave gage were indicated for part of the 

 storra»s duration. Difficulties encountered in application 

 of the new method and probable sources of error are dis- 

 cussed. 



72 



