VOLUME 10 - 1956 



ISSUE NO. 1 - July 1956 



II -A "Wind Distribution Over Sea Waves" by Ulrich Roll 



A translation made at the University of California ot 

 a paper originally published in the German language 

 in 1948 in "Naturwissenschaften". Wind velocity measure- 

 mants in the air layer immediately adjacent to the water 

 surface were made simultaneously with wave measurements 

 in shallow water of the tidal flats off Neuwerk Island 

 in the North Sea. Transformation of wind energy to waves 

 on the basis of the measurements is discussed in relation 

 to theory and model studies by others. 



II-<3 "Beach Erosion at Durban, South Africa" 

 E 



A presentation of information obtained from correspondence 

 with Colonel David E. Paterson, Beach Consultant to the 

 City Council of Durban. A description (with photographs) 

 of a beach erosion problem dcwmdrift from harbor entrance 

 structures and of efforts by local people to alleviate the 

 problem, including sand bypassing, is presented. 



I-C "Sediment Motion at the Vicinity of a Littoral Barrier" by 

 Ning Chien, University of California 



Laboratory model study to investigate the possible mode 

 of sediment transportation at the vicinity of a littoral 

 barrier such as a projecting cliffed headland. Sand 

 transport rate for this condition is measured and compared 

 to that for a normal sand beach, and model scale effects 

 discussed. 



I-A "An Electronic Gage for Measurement of Small Waves and Ripples' 

 F by Francis W. Kellum, Beach Erosion Board 



Detailed descriptions of circuits and elements of the gage, 

 and its calibration, are presented. It is not necessary 

 for this gage to touch the water surface. Its action de- 

 pends on the variation of dielectrical capacity in the air 

 space between the water surface and a probe. 



74 



