NO. 40 - March 1953 



I-A "The Mechanics of Deep Water, Shallow Water, and Breaking 

 Waves" by Jack R. Morison and R. C. Crooke 



Experimental data are presented for deep water, shallow 

 water, and breaking waves with respect to the wave 

 surface time history, the horizontal and vertical parti- 

 cle velocities and the particle orbits. The measure- 

 ments are compared where applicable to Stokes wave 

 theory. Results show that Stokes wave theory and other 

 wave theories are in good agreement with the measurements 

 for deep water conditions even to d/L values of approxi- 

 mately 0.2. The theories do not show agreement with 

 measurements for shallow water conditions where d/L 

 values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have 

 an appreciable steepness. 



NO. 41 - August 1954 



I-C "Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profiles of Beaches" by 

 Ralph L. Rector 



Results of laboratory experiments utilizing regular wave 

 trains of laboratory size with varying height-length 

 ratios and four sizes of natural beach sands to determine 

 the physical factors controlling the equilibrium profile 

 of a beach and the interrelationships of these factors, 

 are reported. Processes involved in the shaping of a 

 beach profile by wave action are discussed, and empiri- 

 cal relations between profile shape and wave and sand 

 size are involved. 



NO. 42 - October 1953 



II-C "A Study of Sand Movement at South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida" 

 by George M. Watts 



Results are reported for a study made in connection with 

 the operation of a sand bypassing plant to investigate 

 the effectiveness of the operation of such a fixed plant 

 and to relate the volume of sand reaching the pump intake 

 to the wave energy reaching adjacent shores. Field work 

 included measurement of volume of material bypassed by the 

 plant, recording of wave height, period and direction, 

 measurement of alongshore currents, and procurement of 

 sand samples. An empirical relationship between the rate 

 of nearshore littoral movement and the shallow water wave 

 energy is developed. 



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