NO. 53 - September 1954 



I-A "Laboratory Study of Effect of Varying Wave Periods on 

 C Beach Profiles" by George M. Watts 



Tests were made in a laboratory wave tank to determine 

 desirable magnitude and frequency of variations in 

 wave periods in wave tank tests in order to eliminate 

 irregularities in resulting beach profiles accentuated 

 by use of a constant fixed period, and, thereby, more 

 nearly approximate the profiles resulting in nature 

 from wave trains with a variety of ccmponents. Profiles 

 resulting from these tests were compared with those from 

 similar tests utilizing constant wave periods, and 

 foreshore and offshore slopes were found to be essen- 

 tially identical. In general the variable period tests 

 resulted in less actual material movement from the same 

 test time. Offshore bar jmd trough formations inherent 

 in constant period tests were greatly reduced by varying 

 the wave period. 



NO. 54 - November 1954 



I&II-D "Laboratory and Field Tests of Sounding Leads" by George 

 F M. Watts 



Results of tests to determine the relationship between 

 various sizes, shapes and weights of sounding leads, 

 and the degree of penetration of the leads into bottom 

 materials of various physical properties are presented. 

 Tests were made both in the laboratory and in the field, 

 and field data were compared with echo soundings. Of 

 the leads tested, the spherical -shaped lead demonstrated 

 characteristics more nearly approaching those needed for 

 a "practical" shaped sounding lead, 



NO. 55 - November 1954 



II-A "North Atlantic Coast Wave Statistics Hindcast by Bretschneider- 



Revised Sverdrup-Munk Method" by Thorndike Saville, Jr. 



Detailed statistical wave data for deep water, based on 

 hindcasts from synoptic weather charts for the 3-year 

 period 1948-1950, are presented for four stations in the 

 North Atlantic off Penobscot Bay, Maine; off Nauset Beach, 

 Cape Cod, Mass.; off New York harbor entrance; and off 

 Chesapeake Bay entrance. An example of the method for 



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