NO. 59 - February 1955 



I-A "Laboratory Study of Shock Pressures of Breaking Waves" 



by Culbertson W. Ross 



Results of a laboratory study to investigate the high- 

 intensity shock pressures on structures as contrasted 

 to the much smaller hydrostatic pressures developed 

 by rise of the wave against the face of the structure 

 are presented. The laboratory waves were from 3,5 to 

 7.5 inches in Jtieight, producing maximum observed shock 

 pressures of 21 psi. Data were insufficient to 

 establish definitely the relation between pressure and 

 wave height, but an approximate linear relationship is 

 indicated. 



NO. 60 - January 1955 



I-A "Generalized Laboratory Study of Tsunami Run-Up" by 



P Kenneth Kaplan 



Results of a laboratory study made on generalized beach 

 and structure shapes for the relation of tsunami run-up 

 to the characteristics of the wave are presented. It 

 is found that the relative run-up can be related to the 

 wave steepness, and relationships are evaluated for 

 certain slopes and structure types. For Hilo Bay, 

 Hawaii, this study indicates that a run-up of at least 

 two wave heights at the shore line is possible. 



NO. 61 - August 1955 



I-C "Laboratory Study of Wind Tides in Shallow Water" by 



F O. Sibul 



Labo];atory tests were made to enable some quantitative 

 intepretation of bottom effects, water depth and wind 

 strength on wind tide (set-up). Experiments were con- 

 ducted with smooth and rough bottom conditions. Results 

 indicate a rapidly increasing set-up when still water 

 depth decreases belcw a certain limit. There were no 

 indications that bottom roughness affects set-up for 

 relatively deep water, however rougher bottom conditions 

 results in higher set-ups in very shallow water. The 

 trend is especially pronounced for higher wind velocities. 



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