relative run-up values were indicated to be the same 

 as for mechanically- generated uniform waves. For 

 higher wind velocities, the run-up increases with 

 increasing wind velocity and may reach double the 

 value of run-up where no wind is involved. Run-up 

 on the 1:3 slope was found to be considerably higher 

 than that on the 1:6 slope, confirming the trend 

 found by others using uniform waves. 



NO. 68 - February 1956 



II-A "Wave Action and Sand Movement Near Anaheim Bay, California" 



B by Joseph M. Caldwell 



C 



The purpose of the study was to determine the degree to 

 which mass alongshore sand movement on the beach and 

 offshore bottom can be correlated with characteristics 

 of ocean waves impinging on the beach. Field data were 

 collected in connection with a beach fill operation for 

 shore protection immediately south of the Anaheim Bay 

 jetties. Analyses are made of wave energy, sand charac- 

 teristics, and volumetric changes. An approximate 

 relationship for net alongshore sand movement in cubic 

 yards per day in terms of intensity of net alongshore 

 wave energy is worked out. This relationship is in 

 substantial agreement with one derived earlier from data 

 for another part of the U. S. Coast (Tech. Memo. No. 42). 



NO. 69 - December 1954 



II-A "Wave Forces on Piles: A Diffraction Theory" by R. C. MacCamy 

 F and R. A. Fuchs 



An exact mathematical solution is presented for the 

 linearized problem of water waves of small steepness 

 incident on a circular cylinder. In addition to the 

 formal mathematical treatment, sane simple deductions 

 based on the assumption of very small ratio of cylinder 

 diameter to incident wave lengths are made. Suggestions 

 for possible extension of the theory to more extreme 

 wave conditions and other obstacle shapes are also pre- 

 sented. Application of the theory to computation of 

 actual wave forces on cylindrical piles is attempted 

 for tests performed in a small wave channel, and agree- 

 ment is found to be quite good in the region for which 

 the assumptions of the theory are fairly closely realized. 



100 



