TECHNICAL REPOITS 0= THE BEACH EROSION BC^RD 



NO. 1 - May 1941 



I-A "A Study of Progressive Oscillatory Waves in Water" by 



Dr. Martin A. Mason 



Results of experimental laboratory studies seeking 

 confirmation of classical wave theories of Gerstner, 

 Stokes, Levi-Civita and Laplace-Airy are reported. 

 Confirmation of the irrotational wave theories of 

 Stokes and Levi-Civita is shown. Description of 

 previous investigations by others relative to the 

 verification of wave theory is appended. 



NO. 2 - November 1941 



I-A "A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves" by Morrough 

 P. O'Brien and Dr. Martin A. Mason 



A summary of the theoretical treatments of oscillatory 

 wave motion on a free water surface is presented. 

 Mention is made of the extent to which confirmation of 

 the theory has been obtained by experiment. A list of 

 basic references is included. 



NO. 3 - August 1948 



I-C "An Experimental Study of Submarine Sand Bars" by Dr. Garbis 

 F H. Keulegan 



Results of laboratory experiments made to determine the 

 existence of basic relationships governing bar phenomena 

 are reported. Observations were made of the form, 

 dimensions, and number of bars; wave characteristics; 

 ripple formation; and nature and volume of sand movement 

 involved in bar formation. Certain qualitative obser- 

 vations on some of the factors affecting the mechanism 

 of bar formation and movement were also made during 

 the investigation. 



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