THIRD CONFERENCE - 1952 



Part 1 

 Basic Oceanographic Information 



Chap . Title and Author Page 



1 WAVES AND BREAKERS IN SHOALING WATER 1 



H. W. Iversen 



2 THE SOLITARY WAVE 13 



James W. Daily and Samuel G. Stephan, Jr. 



3 ACCURACY OF HY OROGRAPHIC SURVEYING IN AND NEAR THE SURF ZONE 31 



Thorndike Saville, Jr. and Joseph M. Caldwell 



4 ENVIRONMENTAL ASPECTS OF THE EBB SIDE AND FLOOD SIDE OF TIDAL 48 

 ESTUARIES AS A FACTOR IN HARBOR LOCATIONS 



Francis E. Elliott, Willie L. Tressler and William H. Myers 



5 THE SALT WEDGE 5 4 



Harlow G. Farmer and George W. Morgan 



6 CIRCULATION IN ESTUARIES 65 



Bostwick H. Ketchum 



7 NOTES ON THE GENERATION AND GROWTH OF OCEAN WAVES UNDER WIND 77 

 ACTION 



Gerhard Neumann 



8 THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA 86 

 SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST 



Willard J. Pierson Jr., John J. Tuttell, and John A Woolley 



Part 2 

 Coastal Sediment Problems 



9 GEOLOGY IN SHORELINE ENGINEERING AND ITS APPLICATION TO 109 



MASSACHUSETTS BEACH PROBLEMS 

 L. W. Currier 



10 ARTIFICIALLY NOURISHED AND CONSTRUCTED BEACHES 119 



Jay V. Hall, Jr. 



11 MEASURES AGAINST EROSION AT GROINS AND JETTIES 137 



Per Bruun 



42 



