Part 1 (cont.) 

 Chap . Title and Author Page 



12 DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS 202 



J. G. H. R. Diephuis and J. G. Gerritze 



13 A WAVE HEIGHT AND FREQUENCY METER 209 



Frank E. Snodgrass & Robert Putz 



14 IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ELECTRIC STEP GAUGE FOR MEASURING WAVE 225 

 HEIGHTS 



C. M. Verhagen 



15 LABORATORY FACILITIES FOR STUDYING WATER GRAVITY WAVE PHENOMENA 231 



C. M. Snyder, R. L. Wiegel, and K. J. Bermel 



16 THE USE OF THE STOKES-STRUIK APPROXIMATION FOR WAVES OF 252 

 FINITE HEIGHT 



L. E. Borgraan and J. E. Chappelear 



Part 2 

 Coastal Sediment Problems 



17 THE ORIGIN AND STABILITY OF BEACHES 281 



J. W. Hoyle and G. T. King 



18 HOW ARE BEACHES SUPPLIED WITH 'SHINGLE? 302 



J. A. Steers 



19 UTILISATION DES TRACEURS RADIOACTIFS POUR L'ETUDE DES 314 



MOUVEMENTS DE SEDIMENTS MAR INS 



J. Germain, G. Forest et P. Jaffry 



20 CONTRIBUTION TO THE STUDY OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ON A HORIZONTAL 326 

 BED DUE TO WAVE ACTION 



G. E. Vincent 



21 A PULSATING WATER TUNNEL 356 



H. Lundgren and Torben Sorensen 



22 SEDIMENT MOVEMENT AT SOUTH INDIAN PORTS 359 



Madhav Manohar 



23 LITTORAL DRIFT PROBLEMS IN PORTUGAL WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO 406 

 THE BEHAVIOR OF INLETS ON SANDY BEACHES 



Carlos Krus Abecasis 



51 



