NO. 109 - March 1959 



"Laboratory Data on Wave Run-up on Roughened and Impermeable 

 Slopes " by R. P. Savage 



Laboratory tests determining run-up on various shore 

 slopes as a result of wave action are described. Curves 

 relating the relative run-up to wave steepness for dif- 

 ferent conditions of roughness and permeability are 

 presented and compared. 



NO. 110 - April 1959 



" Beaches Near San Francisco, California, 1956-1957 " by 

 P. D. Trask 



Eighteen profiles on ocean beaches in the vicinity of San 

 Francisco, Calif., were measured and sampled at 2 to 6- 

 week intervals from July 1956 to June 1957, and results 

 were presented in tables and graphs. Results show indi- 

 vidual beaches differ from one another, and the same beach 

 differs from season to season and from place to place at 

 any given time. The sand on the beaches tends to be 

 relatively fine in the fall and coarse in the late winter 

 or early spring. Individual beaches commonly build up 

 during summer and fall and erode back during winter and 

 spring. The front of the berm may advance or retreat as 

 much as 100 feet throughout the year. 



NO. Ill - May 1959 



'Large-Scale Tests of Wave Forces on Piling (Preliminary 

 Report) " by C. W. Ross 



Measurements were made in a large wave tank of forces 

 exerted against a test pile by wave action. Instrumenta- 

 tion and procedures are pictured and described. The 

 measured forces are presented in tabular form, grouped 

 by various test conditions. Analysis and correlation of 

 forces with wave phase and velocity were not completed 

 at this time. 



NO. 112 - May 1959 



" The Propagation of Tidal Waves into Channels of Gradually 

 Varying Cross-Section (Effect of a Frictional Resistance 

 Over the Bed )" by P. Perroud 



The effect of frictional resistance over the bed on the 

 propagation of long waves of small amplitude into a 



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