attempt to better determine their interrelationships. The investigation 
involves the simultaneous observation of the various elements, with subse- 
quent data analysis using statistical and high-speed computer techniques. 
Progress so far has involved establishment of horizontal and vertical con- 
trol along three profile lines in the Virginia Beach area. Simultaneous 
observations of wave, tide, and current data have been made on several 
occasions, together with obtention of bottom sediment samples and profile 
data. Computer analysis for the development of trend surface data is 
underway. 
VII. University of California Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng-63-8. Wave Forces 
On Coastal Structures 
A new contract was negotiated with the University of California in 
Berkeley for the laboratory study of wave forces on coastal structures. 
In particular, information will be obtained on the vertical forces 
exerted by water waves on structural members of various types of coastal 
structures; and the details of eddy formation by waves moving past verti- 
cal cylinders will be investigated. Laboratory work on study of vertical 
forces induced by waves on a dock has been initiated, as has theoretical 
work on the distribution functions of wave forces on a circular pile. 
VIII. Texas A & M Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng-63-9. Modification of Two- 
A new contract was negotiated with the Agricultural and Mechanical 
College of Texas to investigate the modification of free gravity waves in 
variable depth, including reflection and transmission aspects, especially 
considering those long wave phenomena where simple refraction theory is 
inadequate. The study will have particular application to propagation of 
tsunami wave packets and solitary surges over the continental shelf. 
Initial phase of the work has been to establish a modified long wave 
equation which can properly take into account the dispersive character 
of quasi-long waves. 
IX. Scripps Institution of Oceanography Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng-63-10 
Mechanics of Sediment Transport by Waves and Currents. 
A new contract was negotiated with the Scripps Institution of Oceano- 
graphy to study the mechanics of sediment transport by waves and currents 
in shallow water. Major objectives of the study are to obtain quantitative 
measurements of the sediment movement associated with the motion of waves 
and currents and to compare and relate this transport to measurements of 
the basic properties of the fluid inducing the transport. Particular 
attention is to be given the critical boundary of the sediment-water inter - 
face, Initial work under this contract will be to design a data acquisi- 
tion system to give analog records permitting later computer processing 
for power spectra and cross spectral analysis. 
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