X. Professor Frank D. Masch (Consultant). Wave Characteristics in 
Shoaling Water 
A consultant contract has been negotiated with Professor Masch at 
the University of Texas for study of wave characteristics in shoaling 
water, with particular attention to cnoidal wave theory. The basic pur- 
pose is to present a workable and convenient method for computing water 
wave characteristics in shoaling water utilizing the non-linear cnoidal 
wave theory. Basically the method involves calculating power transmission 
for a wave train in shallow water from cnoidal theory and equating this to 
the wave power in deep water. Computation has been made of the average 
cnoidal wave power by integrating the product of the pressure in the hori- 
zontal component of water particle velocity over the distance from the 
bottom of the fluctuating water surface and over one wave period, This 
integration has involved determination of the various integrals of the 
powers of the cnoidal functions in terms of the wave characteristics and 
the complete integrals. 
XI. University of Miami (Marine Laboratory). Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng- 
63-12. The Role of Shell Material in the Natural Sand Replenishment 
Cycle of the Beach and Nearshore Area. 
A new contract has been negotiated with the University of Miami to 
investigate the role of natural shell replenishment as a contributing 
element in the nourishment of beach material along the beach and nearshore 
area. Particular attention will be paid to the area lying between Lake 
Worth Inlet and the Miami Ship Channel on the Atlantic Coast of Florida, 
Study will be made of the kind and amount of shell being contributed to 
this area, its source, its disposition, and its duration as a component 
of the beach materials. 
XII. The University of Southern California. Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng- 
63-13, Shelf Sediment Transport. 
A new contract has been negotiated with the University of Southern 
California (Department of Geology) to study the pattern of sediment move- 
ment in the nearshore shelf area, and in particular of sediment transport 
in submarine canyons. The investigation will utilize fluorescent tracers, 
and is pointed toward determination of quantitative estimates of material 
movement down submarine canyons from the littoral zone near the shore. 
XIII. University of Southern California. Contract DA-49-055-civ-eng- 
63-14. Surf Zone Transport 
A new contract was negotiated with the University of Southern Cali- 
fornia (Department of Geology) to study the movement of sediment within 
the surf zone, and its relation to the distribution of water particle 
velocity in the surf area. A telemetering dynamometer will be used to 
obtain velocity measurements, and fluorescent dyed sand grains will be 
used as tracers. 
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