(i) Wave Measurements and Analysis. 



Wave records continued to be taken at five ocean gages (Atlantic 

 City, New Jersey; Palm Beach and Naples, Florida; Huntington Beach and 

 Port Hueneme, California). Several gages have been constructed and in- 

 stalled in the Columbia River in connection with hydrologic studies 

 under way by the Walla Walla District of the Corps of Engineers for John 

 Day Reservoir. Additional spectrum recordings from a tape recorder have 

 been obtained from the wave gage at Atlantic City, and sample analyses 

 of these made with the spectrum analyzer are being compared with numerical 

 analyses made from the paper pen-and-ink recordings. Previous wave gages 

 of the step resistance type developed by the Board have been designed 

 specifically for either fresh or salt water. However, a need has arisen 

 in some estuaries and bays subject to fresh water flow for a gage giving 

 accurate measurements over a wide range of salinities. Such a gage has 

 now been developed at the Board, and installations are being made in 

 Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana. 



(j) Regional Studies. 



A draft of the report on geomorphology and shore line history for 

 the south shore of Long Island is under review. A report on the littoral 

 materials of the south shore of Long Island is under preparation. Com- 

 pilation of geomorphological and littoral material data for the coastal 

 sector from Cape Henlopen to Cape Charles is under way. 



(k) Technical Report No. 4, "Shore Protection Planning and Design". 



A continuing study is being made to improve and supplement present 

 chapters of this publication. The first printing of this publication 

 has been out of print for some time, and a revised edition has now been 

 drafted. It is planned that this revised edition will be published 

 some time in the spring of 1961. Major revisions or additions involve 

 sections on wave run-up, hurricane waves and surge, and wave forces 

 (including stability of rubble -mounds ) . 



(1) Re-examination of Beach Protection Projects. 



A continuing program is being carried out on the re-examination 

 of artificially nourished beaches to determine the effectiveness of the 

 fill material within the beach zones, and to better establish the factors 

 upon which the desired characteristics of fill material are based. Con- 

 tinuing studies of other projects constructed following beach erosion 

 control studies are under way to determine effectiveness of the various 

 structure components. Projects under study during this fiscal year were: 

 Prospect Beach, Connecticut; Asphalt Groins along New Jersey and Maryland 

 Coasts. 



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