dredged canals in the center part. The island encompasses the village 

 of Westhampton Beach, the communities of Tiana Beach and Quogue, and the 

 Copsoque Beach Park. 



The geomorphology and geologic history of the south shore of Long 

 Island have been summarized in Beach Erosion Board (1960), Taney (1961a), 

 U.S. Army Engineer District, New York (1963, 1969), and Heikoff (1976). 



Since the shoreline of Westhampton Beach trends N. 70° E., it is par- 

 allel to wave crests coming from the south-southeast. The ocean beaches 

 consist of medium to coarse grain (0.3 to 1.2 millimeters or 1.7 to -0.3 

 phi; Taney, 1961b) quartz sand and are approximately 75 to 125 meters 

 wide from the frontal dune to the mean low water (MLW) shoreline (Figs. 

 2 and 3). Maximum dune elevations range from 4.6 to 7.6 meters above 

 MLW, with the higher elevations occurring on the eastern profiles. 



Tides are semidiurnal with a mean range of 0.9 meter and a spring 

 range of 1.1 meters. Mean wave height, from visual breaker observations 

 between 1968 and 1973, is 0.73 meter; mean period is 8.1 seconds. 



The direction of net longshore sand transport is from east to west and 

 the average net rate has been estimated to be about 230,000 cubic meters 

 per year at Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets (U.S. Army Engineer District, 

 New York, 1971). Net transport rates decrease eastward along the south 

 shore of Long Island due to increasing exposure to waves from the southwest. 



Twin jetties were constructed between 1947 and 1954 at both Moriches 

 and Shinnecock Inlets, together with revetments along the west shore of 

 each inlet. The jetties at Shinnecock Inlet were completed about 2 years 

 before those at Moriches Inlet. Three separate dune-fill projects on 

 Westhampton Beach were completed by the State of New York in 1951, 1958, 

 and 1967. The last two projects amounted to 116,000 and 76,000 cubic 

 meters of fill, respectively. Additional work by the State and Federal 

 Governments included dune reconstruction after a major hurricane in 

 September 1938, emergency closure of breaches in the barrier opened in 

 1954 (Hurricane Carol) and during the 6, 7, and 8 March 1962 northeaster 

 (vicinity of profile line 7, Fig. 4), construction of a field of 15 groins, 

 and associated beach fill. A total of 864,000 cubic meters of fill mate- 

 rial, with median grain size of 0.35 millimeter, was placed along the beach 

 front after the March 1962 storm. 



Groin construction was accomplished in two phases (Table 1 and Fig. 

 4). Eleven groins were constructed between profile lines 5 and 8 during 

 July 1965 to October 1966. The groin field was extended 1,800 meters 

 westward with an additional four groins between August 1969 and July 

 1970. These additional groin compartments were filled with a total of 

 1.9 million cubic meters of dune and beach fill, placed during 15 March 

 to 23 May 1969 and 27 to 31 October 1970. 



III. DATA COLLECTION PROCEDURE 



A total of 20 profile lines was established along azimuths perpen- 

 dicular to the local shoreline (Fig. 4). Profile lines 1 to 11 were 



