CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 



4 Velocity profiles due to wave-current interaction compared with 



the profile obtained by superposing measured velocities with 



waves alone and currents alone 24 



5 Direction of rays as vector sum of current plus group velocity .... 30 



6 Effect of shearing current on direction of wave energy (solid 



curves) and wave crests (dashed curves) 34 



7 Rays in a nonuniform stream in a channel, showing two sets of 



trapped waves and their corresponding caustics 36 



8 Rays focusing at a cusp 49 



9 Nonlinear analog of rays focusing 52 



10 Mean current induced in wake of spilling breaker 54 



11 Examples of surface shear in the wave direction, and resulting 



effect on wave profile 55 



12 Examples of surface shear against the wave direction, and resulting 



effect on wave profile 56 



