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Paris," says Guicciardini, " there is no town beyond the Alps which can compare 

 with Antwerp in wealth and power." This prosperity, however, was but of short 

 duration, for wars, massacres, visitations of the plague, and the introduction of the 

 Inquisition rapidly destroyed it. In 1568 Antwerp had a population of more 

 than 100,000 souls, but a century later not half that number. The Dutch, 

 who had possession of the mouths of the Schelde, impeded its free navigation, and 

 in the treaty of Westphalia (1648) they secured a monopoly of it. Amsterdam 

 then inherited the commerce of Antwerp. Still the geographical position of the 

 Belgian city, on a deep navigable river, is so favourable a one that its commerce 

 very quickly revived when political circumstances became more auspicious. 

 The city now has more inhabitants, carries on a more extensive commerce, and 

 is wealthier than at any previous epoch in its history ; and, unless natural 

 causes or a war with the Dutch should close up its great river highway, its 

 commerce is sure to increase with every year. The silting up of the Lower 

 Schelde, however, is going on at an increasing rate, and Belgian engineers have 

 actually proposed to supersede the Schelde by' an artificial navigation canal 25 feet 

 in depth, which, passing entirely through Belgian territory, would debouch upon 

 the roadstead of Heyst. If that work should ever be carried out, Antwerp would 

 once more be reduced from its high estate, and Bruges become the great commercial 

 emporium of Belgium. 



The old city extends for a couple of miles along the right bank of the Schelde, 

 being bounded on the north by the docks, and on the south by a railway station, 

 occupying the site of the old citadel, only recently demolished. The ramparts 

 which formed the defence of Antwerp during the memorable sieges of 1814 and 

 1832 have been levelled and planted with trees. New quarters have sprung up 

 beyond them, covering a larger area than the ancient city, but wide open spaces 

 still extend to the new enceinte, which, in addition to Antwerp proper, engirdles 

 also the independent communes of Borgerhout (18,637 inhabitants) and Berchcm 

 (8,450 inhabitants). Narrow winding streets still distinguish the old town, whilst 

 wide straight avenues and gardens preponderate in the new quarters. The public 

 promenades are amongst the most beautiful in Europe, and the zoological gardens 

 have acquired a well-merited celebrity. Antwerp is a city of monuments. A 

 monument has been raised in honour of the Belgii who fought so valiantly against 

 Julius Cœsar, whilst statues of Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, and others ornament 

 the open places. Ortelius, the famous geographer and author of the " Theatrum 

 Mundi," has not yet been similarly honoured. 



Fine public buildings are numerous. The exchange — rebuilt in its pristine 

 sumptuousness after the fire of 1869 ; the town- hall, with historical paintings by 

 Leys ; the halls of the ancient trade guilds ; and many of tho churches are 

 deservedly held in high estimation. But the foremost position amongst the 

 buildings of Antwerp must be assigned to its cathedral, raised between the 

 fourteenth and sixteenth centuries, and beyond a doubt the most noble edifice of 

 that kind in all Belgium. Its marvellous spire rises to a height of 402 feet. 

 The nave is simple and overpowering in its proportions ; but the great attraction 



