FOREWORD 



The study of surface wave phenomena, particularly progressive 

 oscillatory waves in water, has engaged the attention of many investi- 

 gators in recent years and has resulted in significant advances in our 

 knowledge o With increased knowledge the importance of wave action as a 

 factor in the solution of engineering problems of coastal and shore 

 areas has become more and more apparent. 



In furtherance of its statutory obligation to publish technical 

 information useful to the public concerned with the study of shore lines 

 the Beach Erosion Board has arranged with the University of California 

 the publication and dissemination of this paper for the benefit of those 

 engaged in protecting our shores from the ravages of the seas. 



