TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 



Introduction . 1 



Diagrams of Wave Functions ................................. 2 



Relationship Between Depth and the Height, Period, Length 



and Velocity of Waves . . . . 2 



Determination of Wave Height and Depth of Water at Point of 



Breaking ...................... ..... ....................... . 5 



Effect of Capillarity on Wave Velocity. ....................... 5 



Effect of Refraction on Wave Direction ........................ 5 



Surface Wave Heights from Underwater Pressure Measurements ... 6 



Forecasting of Wind Waves and Swell ............... ........... . 6 



Tables of Functions of d/L and d/Lo ............ „ ..... . . ...» ....... . 7 



Values of tanh 2 7rd/L, b s /a s , L/L q and c/C .................. 7 



Pressure Response Factor. ........................ ... »o . ...... . 8 



Fraction of Energy Advancing with the Velocity of the 



Wave Cres t . ........... ........... . ............. ........... 9 



Ratio of Group Velocity to Deep-water Wave Velocity........... 9 



Energy Coefficient. ........................................... 9 



Effect of Shoaling .................................... . ....„, . 10 



Hyperbolic functions .................................. ...... . 10 



Accuracy of Computations ...................................... 10 



Tables. ................................. . ......................... P 11 to 50 



Plates ............................................................. l to 21 



