Diagrams and Tables of Relationships 



Commonly Used in Investigations 



of Surface Waves 



Introduction 



The purpose of this compilation of data is to assemble for easy acces- 

 sibility various functions that are used most frequently in investigations 

 involving various surface wave phenomena „ For convenience this material has 

 been arranged in two sections „ The first section consists of diagrams 

 which are most useful in instances where a graphical solution gives sufficient 

 accuracy for the particular problem,, For those problems where a relatively 

 high degree of accuracy is required a section of tabulated wave functions 

 is presented o Where necessary s a brief summary of the theory and explana- 

 tory notes are given for each diagram and table „ 



The symbols used throughout this compilation are as follows s 



T ■ Wave period 



H = Wave height 



Hq' = Deep water height of wave which approaches shore 

 without refraction 



L = Wave length 



C = Wave velocity 



Cq = Wave group velocity 



D or d * Depth beneath still-water level 



n = Fraction of energy advancing with wave velocity 



K = Pressure response factor 



- = Subscript refers to deep water 



M = Energy coefficient 



ex ■ Angle of wave crest to bottom contour 



a s = Length of semi -major axis of orbit of water particles 



b s =s Length of semi-minor axis of orbit of water particles 



