bax for all water depths and wave periods. Wave heights were measured 

 during the tests at the positions indicated in Figure 1. 



Prototype water elevations of +9 feet and +6 feet MSL were tested 

 with prototype wave periods of 8 and 12 seconds and wave heights 

 ranging from 6 to 12 feet, prototype. All of these conditions were 

 tested with berm crest elevations of +6, +8 and +10 feet MSL, berm 

 widths of 50 feet and 150 feet, and dune slopes of 1:10 and 1:5, These 

 test conditions and results are given in Tables 1 through 6. Later 

 computations indicated that it was possible to have a surge peak of 

 +14 feet MSL in the area, and so further tests were made using this 

 water level with berm elevations of +10.0 and +14.0 feet MSL, a dune 

 slope of 1:5, and slightly different wave heights. The latter test 

 conditions and results are shown in Tables 7 and 8. 



The average wave run-up (determined by averaging the run-up for 

 9 to 15 waves disregarding the first 2 or 3 waves) is given in Tables 

 1 to 7. These values were obtained by comparing the run-up for two 

 runs and; if agreement was good, no further runs were made. If 

 agreement was not good, further runs were made to give a more re- 

 presentative average value. 



In most of the tests the average run-up for the two runs agreed 

 very well, differences being on the order of 0,0 to 0.2 foot (prototype). 

 For these runs, the highest average run-up observed is given in 

 Tables 1 to 7 if the difference was 0.1 foot, and the average value of 

 the two runs is given if the difference was 0.2 foot. If the difference 

 between the average run-up for the first two runs differed by more than 

 0.2 foot, the most consistent value of run-up is given, (Only 2 runs 

 differed by 0,4 foot and 4 runs by 0.3 foot.) Wave heights were the 

 same for all sets of runs. 



For the data shown in Table 8, the run-up values measured were 

 erratic. Since the reason for this erratic variation was unknown, it 

 was believed that the average of the highest 1/3 of the run-up values 

 would be more representative than the average run-up value. Consequently 

 both the average run-up and the average of the highest 1/3 of the run-up 

 values are given in Table 8. 



Waves breaking on the 1:20 beach slope and moving across the 

 beach berm caused a layer of water to stand on the berm. This stand 

 or set-up is given as "water set-up at toe of dunes" (Tables 1 through 8). 

 When this set-up is added to the "still water depth over the berm" 

 (Tables 1 through 8), the "active water depth over the berm at toe of 

 dunes" is obtained. 



The footnote "Breaks over bar" in Tables 1 to 7 designates £Uiy energy 

 dissipation by turbulence as the wave passed over the bar and does not 

 necessarily indicate a plunging breaker. It may refer to a momentary 

 'Vhitecap" or a "spilling" of the wave over a longer period of time. 



