Calculations based on the solitary wave theory and empirical 

 curves for breaker depth versus deep water wave steepness^ indicate 

 that none of the waves used in the tests with a 14-foot berm elevation 

 should have broken in the 21.5 feet of water over the bar. For 

 example, the calculations give a breaking depth of approximately 16 

 feet for the wave of 12-foot height and 8-second period and a breaking 

 depth of approximately 20 feet for the 12-foot high, 12-second wave. 

 These test waves did break however, and the most probable explanation 

 is that the theoretical and empirical curves apply to the breaker 

 depth for waves travelling up a continuous slope and may fail when the 

 slope abruptly levels. This explanation is supported by the observa- 

 tion that the test waves did not necessarily break on the seaward 

 slope of the bar, but frequently spilled briefly over the level top 

 of the bar, or in some cases, after passing the bar. 



1. Beach Erosion Board, "Shore Protection Planning and Design", Beach 

 Erosion Board Technical Report No, 4, June 1954, pp. 48-50. 



