2, Determine how this distribution of alongshore drift with 

 depth is modified by the installation of groins, jetties, breakwaters, 

 and seawalls. 



These two questions are inherent in all shore protection design pro- 

 blems and are particularly so in the design of fixed sand bypassing 

 plants. An adequate quantitative method of solution to these two 

 problems has yet to be devised, although the preceding portions of 

 this paper show that individual facets of these two problems are being 

 worked on and solved. 



Recent Publications . In addition to the bibliographical references 

 throughout this paper, there are six additional references of a rather 

 comprehensive nature which, collectively, give a record of the present 

 state of knowledge of shore processes and the design of shore protection 

 works, together with a picture of the present research effort in this 

 field. Five of those documents^^^»^^»^^»-^^»40/ are the published 

 proceedings of the five coastal engineering conferences held under 

 the auspices of the Council on Wave Research of the Engineering Founda- 

 tion. Four of these conferences were held in the United States, 

 one each on the shore of the Pacific (1950), the Gulf of Mexico (1951) , 

 the Atlantic (1952), and the Great Lakes (1953). The fifth conference 

 was held in Grenoble, France in 1954. Collectively these five volumes 

 contain 160 papers of interest to engineers and others interested in 

 coastal engineering. The sixth document^^l) ig Technical Report No. 4 

 of the Beach Erosion Board, entitled "Shore Protection Planning and 

 Design", published in 1954 and containing 242 pages plus six appendices. 

 It is felt that the present paper would be incomplete if it failed to 

 mention these six documents. 



Summary . A review of the statements made in this paper and a study 

 of the references will show that considerable progress has been made 

 over the past 15 years in gaining a quantitative understanding of the 

 fundamentals of shore protection processes. This has resulted from the 

 combined efforts of the meteorologist, the oceanographer, the geologist, 

 the applied mathematician, the research engineer, and the field 

 engineer. Much work remains to be done; however, it is believed that 

 another ten years will probably witness a firming up of our understanding 

 and the placing of most shore protection design on a rational, 

 quantitative basis. 



REFERENCES 



1. "Wind, Sea and Swell: Theory of Relations for Forecasting," by 



H. U. Sverdrup and W. H. Munk, Navy Hydrographic Office, 

 Publication No. 601, 1947. 



2. "Revised Wave Forecasting Relationships," by C. L. Bret Schneider, 



Proceedings of 2nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Univ. 

 of California, 1952. 



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