(f) Wave Forecasting 



Methods of forecasting for shallow water wave generation have 

 been presented in Technical Memorandum No. 84 "Wave Forecasting 

 Relationships for the Gulf of Mexico". Procedures include taking 

 bottom friction into account. Formulas and techniques used are 

 calibrated with respect to hurricane wind and wave data from Lake 

 Okeechobee, Florida and some wave data for lighter winds of the Gulf 

 of Mexico, 



Analysis and comparison of the Bretschneider revised Sverdrup- 

 Munk method with the spectrum method developed by Neumann and Pier son 

 are being continued in an attempt to reconcile the two methods and 

 establish more accurate values of the exponents used in the two methods. 



The development of a joint distribution function for height and 

 length, converted to a joint distribution function for height and period 

 has been in progress. From this distribution function, a general form 

 of the wave spectrum is being studied. A report on the above will be 

 issued in the next year, 



(g) Equilibrium Profile Tests 



Equilibrium profiles were obtained in the prototype tank for the 

 following wave conditions: 



Wave Height Wave Period 



5.5 feet 11.33 seconds 



5.3 5.60 



5.0 3.75 



2.0 16.0 



5.3 16.0 



Most of these wave conditions were also tested in the small wave tanks 

 at 1:10 and 1:15 scales. The resulting data are to be used to establish 

 profile scale relationships in movable bed beach models. A paper was 

 prepared covering the results of the tests and is to be given at the 

 meeting of the International Association of Hydraulic Research in Lisbon, 

 Portugal. 



(h) Hurricane Studies 



The staff of the Board had been called upon to support the present 

 hurricane study program of the Corps of Engineers. Considerable work 

 has been done by the staff in developing and improving methods for 

 estimating storm surge heights and wave heights under a variety of 

 shoreline conditions. Wave forces and wave overtopping phenomena con- 

 nected with seawall and dike design have also been studied* 



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