CONTENTS 



Page No. 

 PART I - FUNCTIONAL PLAMMING 



1. INTRODUCTION 1 



2. PHYSICAL FACTORS AFFECTING FUNCTIONAL PLAIMNING 



WAVE ACTION 



Waves in Deep Water 1 

 Growth and Decay of Waves 2 



Forecasting Methods and Procedures 3 



Waves in Transitional and Shallow Water l6 



Refraction of Waves 17 



Procedures in Refraction Diagram Construction 21 



Refraction Diagram Limitations 2$ 



Significant and Higher Waves 25 



Breaking Waves 28 



Diffraction of Waves 28 



Refraction and Diffraction Combined 32 



CHANGES IN WATER LEVEL 



Tides kO 



Wind Set-up Ul 



Seiches ill 



Lake Levels I4.2 



LITTORAL DRIFT 



General Characteristics li2 



Slope Sorting of Littoral Material \\S 



Littoral Characteristics hi 



Determination of Direction of Littoral Drift $0 



Shore Effects of Existing Structures 50 



Evidence of Headlands 50 



Evidence at Tidal Inlets 53 



Wave Analysis 53 



Character of Materials in the Littoral zone 56 



Current Measurements .. 58 



Rate of Littoral Drift ^9 



Sources of Littoral Material 62 



Contributions by Streams 62 



Contributions by Bluff Erosion 61+ 



Natural Losses of Littoral Material 6ii 



Losses by Littoral Drift Six . 



Movement' of Material Offshore 6k 



Losses in Submarine Canyons 65 



Losses by Deflation 65 



