\ 



V ^\ 







BREAKER HEIGHT INDICES 



U.C 



SOLITARY WAVE THEORY 



— .- BREAKERS AND SURF 





-:JJ 



^^ \^ 



J\ 



^ 















^ 



- 



*^*^^ 



"■^-^^^5^,^ 



. _^ 

















--^ 



^--- — 





1.0 



0.5 

 .002 



.004 006 .008 .01 .02 



H„/ 



04 .06 



FIGURE 17 



BREAKER DEPTH INDICES 



U.C. 



SOLITARY WAVE THEORY 



—»— BREAKERS AND SURF 



1. 01 — 

 .002 



.004 006 .008 .01 



H, 



04 .06 



FIGURE 18 



29 



