ML. 













1 





1 

























































































^ 



























■'^ 









r^ 





r\ 





■ 





100 



M.H 





"V 









— 



h-tv 



— 







B 



^ 











" 































■"S 



T 



1 — 



n 



1 1 



L — 1 



— _ 



\ — 1 



— \ 









— 



"'■if/i 







-4-:^= 







Iroug 



T 



^^ 











^ 



<- 





' 



0.8 





■ ^ 













Sift.) 





/.r 











- 







J 















U 



Li_j 











'A 



H/L = 0.054, d/L^ 0.449 

 H T C d 



(fi.) (sec) (ft-/sec) UU 



0.146 074 3.69 1.218 i:50 



SURFACE TIME HISTORY 



0,146 0.74 3.69 1-218 0.054 0449 KSO 

 HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITY DISTRIBUTION 





















i 



0,, 



■J-c, 

 7rra" 



.-4 



^H-H 



. 

























'■: 



-A-lh 



'-■■-r- 





\ 

















/■ 



\ 







- 



- 













K--- 



^ 



- 



1 SdU 



^"^ 





i 



1 



1 



^■T<-s' 







"■ 







i 



f^ 









" 







._ 











^ 







-J " '■" 



■ 









1 1 i 











1 



1 1 





Theory 













1 





innini 



- 





^.tquori 



" 



.11 











-^^ 









L-^ 



■" 















^, 



• 



\ '■ 









V. 





ri.=f- 



- 



t— 



still wa\er level — 



— 



_. 



-• 



J. ^ 





^ 





1 

















■■ / 







> 



4=L— 















^"1" 1 



„ 



L 





H— 



d 



b 



tn 



c 



L 



U 





LU 



Isec) (ti/sec) (ft) 



e 27 0.105 5.10 1.62 3.64 0.292 

 SURFACE TIME HISTORY 



111.) Ifl.l Isecl Hl/eec) llf.1 

 Wove 23 0106 5.10 l.o2 2.83 0.292 

 Wove 27 0.105 5.10 1.62 3.64 0292 



HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITY DISTRIBUTION 



PARTICLE ORBIT ABOUT MEAN PARTICLE 

 POSITION WITH NO MASS TRANSPORT 











1 

































=i 



-^ 





















% 



. 







— 











1 1 



1 



— ^1 



p^ 



-f^ 



\ — 4 — 



— 



— 





-^ 





-^ 



— '^ 



















it 



~ 



4- 



_ 



.3^ 



'S^ 





U: 



1 wqler levaf- 



— 



^ 















«*«f«-v 



,c-Wl 



w^ 















i 























1 











■ 











cresl 



J 



. . 







1- 







— SW.L 



'-■■/t 







. 



^-n— 



-/f'™»"- 







;•. ! 



„ 



i ■; 1 I 















1 



^--^ 





'■■■ :^ 





r 



~7 



\-'— 



5»L-i •- 



•. 







K 



\End 



!'•- 



■6eginnir,q | 



.- 





i 













0.330 i:SO 0-0262 

 ^IME HISTORY 



>- eievoTion of the pcrticlo above the bottt 

 m this cose ths surfoce parlicle. 



I = still water depth, ffO 



• '- wovehfiigbt.Cft.) 



. : wave length, (ff.) 



■ = lime.tsec.) 

 - wove period, (sec.J 



I = horizontal particle velocity, (ft. per sec.) 



) : ongiilor position of porticle in its orbit 

 counterclockwise and where there is no 

 troDsport, (degrees) 



. = horizontol positron of porticle in its meoi 





. (ft.) 



c = wove velocity of propGgotii:jn-( ft./sec) 

 y = verticle position of porticle in its maon 

 horizontal position. 



subscript B refers to breaking conditio 



Equotions l,4,5,Sond iO ore from Stokes' second opproximotion. 



Equotion 2 is from Stokes first opproximotion. 



Equafions 9 and II ore reduced forms of Stokes' seccnd opproximotion. 



riME HISTORIES, PARTfCLE VELOCITY DISTRIBU HOWS AND ORBITAL PATHS, 

 OF WAVES IN DEEP WATER, IN SHALLOW WATER, AND AT BREAKING 



It Morison and Croohe, I953) 



