y^Y^y>A\ 



still water level 



^/\\\-=v//V>//A5^/A\V//'<'=' 



=\\V'//'/\T>i'/A\^/V'/AV\V/^' 



^,^\WAV//AW-///=\v,V 



FIGURE 100- DISTRIBUTION OF PRESSURES; BROKEN WAVES 



Hv,=3B' 



still water level 



d,=5' 



/^V>^^/<^/is^^W/i^x-^///!y^yyA^ 



FIGURE 101 - Distribution of pressure-, breaking waves 



149 



