Wave crest 



L = Wove length 



1 



Direction of 

 Wove travel 



Wove crest 



d- depth 



Oceon bottom 



H= Height 



t^Wove trough 



Wove trough 



Still woter level 



WAVE CHARACTERISTICS 



»\\\KK^\\r^^i^\>/.\\\b\\\\///-///A-\\\X\=\\///y\\<W=\\\\\\/z/\\\^ =///\J 



Smoil motion of, 

 woter below Lo/2 



DIRECTION OF ORBITAL MOVEMENT 



OF WATER PARTICLES IN DIFFERENT 



PARTS OF A DEEP WATER WAVE. 



Wave direction 



r^\_^ I 



BEACH GRASS SHOWS THE DIRECTION OF 

 MOVEMENT OF WATER PARTICLES UNDER 

 VARIOUS PARTS OF A SHALLOW WATER WAVE. 



FIGURE A-3 WAVE CHARACTERISTICS AND 

 DIRECTION OF WATER PARTICLE MOVEMENT 



A-43 



