Ft. Pinoa, California 



Vares moving OTer a submarine rid^e oonoentrate to give large 

 wave heights on a point. 



STfi -^r^" 







^ 



g^jf-vlili 





^ , ■ - 



Halfmoon Bay. California 



Note the increasing width of the surf zone with increasing 

 degree of eipoaure to the south. 



PurJBUDfl Ft.. California 



Refraction of waves around a headland produoee low vaTes and a 

 parrow surf zone where banding ia greateat. 



FIGURE A-5 REFRACTION OF WAVES 



A-45 



