Symbol Description 



K 



Kd 



Kb 



i 



L' 



t 



V 



Basic 

 Units 

 (in F,L, 

 T Systera ) 



Exarn.ple in 

 Enfalif-h Units 



Sub-surface pressure response 



coefficient 



Also: Any constant 



Also: Refraction coefficient 



Refraction coefficient 



Refraction coefficient for breakers 



Diffraction coefficient 



Beach slope;, as specified 



Also: \PL 



L/L 



V ra + n ;, where ra = 2 tt /L and 



n s 2 tt/L' (short crested waves,) l/L 

 Also: 2 n /L (long crested waves) l/L 



Wave length (distance between two 

 successive crests in the direction 

 of propagation) 



Also: Length, one of the basic 

 units 



Wave length on breaking 



Wave length at end of decay 



Wave length at end of fetch 



Wave length in the crest direction 

 (short-crested theory) 



a length 



Crest length (the linear distance 

 measured along the wave crest be- 

 tween consecutive intersections of 

 the crest and the still water 

 level) 



Mass, a basic unit in the (M,L,T) 



system 



Also: Energy coefficient 



Also: Moment 



B-1; 



L 

 LF 



Ver. rise (ft) 

 Her. dist. (ft) 



l/feet 

 1/feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



L 



feet 



feet 



slugs 

 foot-pounds 



