Table D-1 ~ Functions of d/L for Even Increments of d/Lo 

 Table D-2 - Functions of d/Lo for Even Increments of d/L 



d/Lo = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the 

 vjave length in deep water. 



d/L = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to 

 the ;vave length at that same location. 



K = a pressure response factor used in connection with under- 

 water pressure instruments, where 



Z 



K H./H P/P cosh 2iTd/L (1 - d) 



K = H'/H = P/Po = c~sh 2Trd/L 



where P is the pressure flucutation at a depth Z below still 

 water, Pq is the surface pressure fluctuation, d is the 

 depth of water from still water level to the ocean bottom, 

 L is the xjave length in any particular depth of water, and 

 H' is the corresponding variation of head at a depth Z. 

 The values of K shown in the tables are for the instrument 

 placed on the bottom where 



K = -I — 



cosh 2TTd/L 



n « the fraction of wave energy that travels fort^ard with the 

 wave forms i^e,, with the wave velocity C rather than the 

 group velocity Cq. 



1 1 + hyd/L 

 ^ = 2 sinh hrtd/L 



Cq/C^ = ratio of group velocity to deep-water wave velocity where 



In. ^ 5^ » _C ^ tanh 2^d/L 

 Go C Cq 



H/H'q z ratio of the wave height in shallow water to what its 



wave height would have been in deep water if unaffected by 

 refraction, 



H , !T^ ^ i~r~T 







H' ¥2 n G/c; 



M - an energy coefficient defined as 



V 2 

 - 2 tanh^ 2Trd 



D-2 



