mechanically. Reports by Sibul were issued as Technical Memoranda Nos. 

 67 and 80 of the Board, and indicate that wind action serves to increase 

 both run-up and overtopping. 



VI. University of California. Contract DA-49-055-eng-44. Principal 

 Investigator. J. W. Johnson and R. L. Wiegel 



Refracted wave characteristics were measured in the model tank for 

 a series of wave, slope, and depth conditions. Measurements show that 

 wave trains under certain conditions split up into multiple trains, and 

 these conditions are being isolated. Data also shows that in general 

 Snell* s law applies, although for certain conditions the waves con- 

 siderably over -refract. Work in the ripple tank was summarized in a 

 paper by Ralls, "Ripple Tank Study of Wave Refraction- published by the 

 American Society of Civil Engineers. 



VII. Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas. Contract DA-49-055- 

 eng-45. Principal Investigator. C. L. Bretschneider. succeeded by 

 B. W. Wilson 



Wave hindcasts for five locations on the Gulf of Mexico coast of 

 the United States were completed for deep water and for four shallow 

 water depths (12, 24, 48, 96 feet). These will appear as Board Technical 

 Memoranda in the near future. Work is continuing on detailed hurricane 

 wave forecasts for 11 hurricanes in the Gulf. 



VIII. University of Florida. Contract DA-49-055-eng-55 . Principal 

 Investigator. P. Bruun. 



A new contract initiated to organize and, where possible, analyse 

 existing data on tidal entrances, principally that data previously 

 collected by the various Corps of Engineer offices. The available data 

 has been collected and sent to Florida for analysis. Considerable pro- 

 gress has been made on the analysis. 



IX. New York University, Contract DA-48-055-eng-56. Principal 

 Investigator, S. S. L. Chang 



A new contract to provide consultation advice on the use and modifica- 

 tion of the wave spectrum analyzer. The analyzer is now being modified 

 to period analysis of laboratory (very short period) waves as well as 

 prototype ocean waves. 



X. Agricultural and Mechanical College of Texas. Contract DA-49-055- 

 Civ - eng-56-4. Principal Investigator. R. O. Reid 



A new contract to provide analysis of the hurricane surge and 

 associated waves and wind set-up for design of hurricane protection 

 structures in the New England area, primarily Narragansett Bay, New 

 Bedford, and Stamford. A method for predicting hurricane surge was 



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