30 



BEACH EROSION LITERATURE 



There are listed below some recent acquisitions of the Board's library 

 which are considered to be of general interests Copies of these publications 

 can be obtained on 30 day loan by field offices of the Corps of Engineers and 

 other Government agencies , 



"Revised Wave Forecasting" , Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Wave Report 

 Noo 73, March 1948 , 14 pp» s 10 plates. 



The basic theory and technique of forecasting wind waves and swell are 

 given in Ho 0. Publication No. 601 (1947) and H. 0. Misc. No. 11275 

 (1943) both obtainable from the Hydrographic Office. U. S, Navy. Suitland, 

 Maryland. The present paper includes revised forecasting graphs in the 

 form of their original presentation, and in the form of nomographs or 

 alignment charts. Research and experience have shown that forecasting 

 results are improved by certain changes in the procedure for evaluating 

 variables from weather map data which are summarized in this report, 



"The Partition of Energy in Periodic Irrotational Waves on the Surface of 

 Deep Water", George W. Platznan, University of Chicago, Journal of Marine 

 Research, v. 6, no. 3, 1947, "p 194. 



The paper presents general formulae for the potential and kinetic 

 energy of deep water waves in terms of coefficients in the series 

 employed by Stokes, from which the energy may be computed to whatever 

 order these coefficients are Wiown, The kinetic energy, e, and the 

 potential energy, v, are expressed as power series in B, the determina- 

 tion being carried to the eighthorder. A B-series is then derived 

 for the ratio (e - v)/v, from which it is shown that the maximum value 

 of this ratio, corresponding to the highest wave, is approximately l/8. 



"Measurement of Transient Hydraulic Pressures^' L. M. Montgomery and James W. 

 Ward, The Review of Scientific Instruments, v. 18, no. 5, May 1947 » 



Several methods of measuring transient pressure waves in water are des- 

 cribed| including piezoelectric crystals, electromagnetic pickups, 

 balanced diaphragms, high speed stroboscopic pictures of small rubber 

 balloons, and cylindrical wire strain gages. Only the cylindrical 

 wire strain gage was found satisfactory. The method of calibration, 

 response characteristics, and operation of the gage are described. 



"Generation and Propagation of Ocean Waves and Swell", N. F. Barber and F. 

 Ursell, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, Series 

 A, v. 240, no. 824, pp 527-560, February 1948. 



